Car CheckBuying a car
Use it on your phone at the car. Mark each check OK, needs work or not sure, and Car Check turns your answers into a clear picture: how confident you can be about a deal, or how ready the car is for its inspection, and what to do next.
Printed 2 November 2026 from CarStrike · Queensland · Japanese import · Buying a car
Rules checked 30 October 2026 against official government pages. General information only, not legal advice.
Buying in Queensland: paperwork and your rights
- Roadworthy paperwork
- The seller must give you a current safety certificate before a registered car changes hands: ask to see it (an electronic certificate has to be shown when you ask). Not needed if you buy the car unregistered. Gas-powered cars also need a gas certificate.
- From a licensed dealer
- Statutory warranty: Class A (under 160,000 km and under 10 years old) 3 months or 5,000 km; Class B (160,000 km or more, or 10 years or older) 1 month or 1,000 km. It does not cover tyres, batteries, airbags, hoses, most lights, wipers, paint or upholstery (or air conditioning on Class B).
- Cooling-off: 1 business day after signing (to 5pm the next business day). The dealer can keep no more than $100 of your deposit. It does not apply to auctions, consignment or private sales, unregistrable cars, commercial vehicles or caravans.
- Australian Consumer Law guarantees also apply to cars bought from a dealer: the car must be of acceptable quality for its age, price and kilometres, match its description, and be fit for any purpose you told the dealer about.
- From a private seller
- The seller must give you a current safety certificate (and a gas certificate for gas cars).
- Statutory warranties, cooling-off and most consumer guarantees do not cover private or auction sales. A private seller must still have clear title: no undisclosed finance owing on the car.
Official: QLD safety certificates · QLD buying used · QLD selling · QLD AIS · QLD inspection guidelines · QLD warranty · QLD cooling-off · QLD dealers · ACCC
Paperwork and history
Do these from home. Ask the seller for the VIN (17 characters) and the registration number first.
[☐]PPSR check
Deal-breaker if it fails
What to look for: Run a PPSR search on the VIN ($2 online) and keep the certificate. It shows whether finance is registered against the car, and may show if it is recorded as written off or stolen. Run it again on the day you pay.
Why it matters: If you buy a car with finance owing, the lender can repossess it from you.
[☐]VIN and identification plates
Deal-breaker if it fails
What to look for: The VIN (17 characters, usually at the base of the windscreen and on a plate in the engine bay or door pillar) is readable, no plate is missing, loose or painted over, and it matches the registration papers (and, when buying, the PPSR certificate and service book).
Why it matters: Different numbers can mean a stolen car or one rebuilt from parts.
[☐]Registration and the seller
Deal-breaker if it fails
What to look for: The registration is current (check the expiry) and, from a private seller, the name and address on the papers match their licence.
Why it matters: A seller who is not the registered owner may not have the right to sell.
[☐]Roadworthy paperwork for Queensland
What to look for: The seller must give you a current safety certificate before a registered car changes hands: ask to see it (an electronic certificate has to be shown when you ask). Not needed if you buy the car unregistered. Gas-powered cars also need a gas certificate.
Why it matters: Without the right certificate the registration cannot be transferred, and fixing defects becomes your cost.
[☐]Service history
What to look for: A logbook or invoices showing regular services, the odometer reading at each, and big jobs done (timing belt, transmission service, brakes, tyres).
Why it matters: Missing history is a gamble on how the car was looked after; a due timing belt can cost $1,000 or more.
[☐]Odometer looks right
What to look for: The odometer reading fits the service records, the wear on the steering wheel, pedals and driver's seat, and the car's age (about 15,000 km a year is average).
Why it matters: Wound-back odometers still happen, and the PPSR does not record odometer readings.
[☐]No open safety recalls
What to look for: Search the make and model on the government recall sites, or ask a dealer of that brand to check the VIN for outstanding recalls (Takata airbags especially).
Why it matters: An unfixed safety recall (above all a Takata airbag) can be deadly, and recall repairs are free.
Japanese and other importsImports
Imported used cars are often excellent value; these checks catch the things that trip imports up.
[☐]RAV entry or compliance plate
Deal-breaker if it fails
What to look for: Search the VIN or chassis number on the Register of Approved Vehicles (cars approved since 1 July 2021). Imports complied before then carry a compliance plate, usually in the engine bay or door pillar. Have the import approval paperwork with you.
Why it matters: A car that is not on the RAV and has no compliance plate cannot be registered.
[☐]How it was imported
What to look for: Most used Japanese imports come in under SEVS through a Registered Automotive Workshop, which does the compliance work. Ask who imported and complied the car, and for the paperwork.
Why it matters: Paperwork shows the car went through the approved process, not a backyard compliance.
[☐]Auction sheet and history
What to look for: Ask for the Japanese auction sheet (it shows the grade, the kilometres at auction and marked damage) and any export or service papers. A grade of 4 or above with an interior grade of B is a well-kept car; R or RA means repaired accident damage.
Why it matters: The auction sheet is the best record of the car's condition and kilometres before it left Japan.
[☐]Underbody rust (snow country)
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Look under the car with a torch: subframes, brake and fuel lines, sills, chassis rails and the spare-wheel well. Cars from Hokkaido and northern Japan were driven on salted roads.
Why it matters: Hidden structural rust is the most expensive surprise on an import, and it fails the inspection.
[☐]Flood or water damage
Deal-breaker if it fails
What to look for: Musty smell, damp or new carpet, silt or water marks under the seats and in the spare-wheel well, rusty seat rails and seatbelt buckles.
Why it matters: Japan has typhoons and floods too, and flood damage ruins electrics.
[☐]Airbag recalls fixed on the import
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Ask for proof that any Takata or other airbag recall was done, in Japan or here: an import may not show up on a local dealer's recall list, so check the VIN or chassis number with the brand.
Why it matters: An unfixed recalled airbag can kill, and recall work is free.
[☐]Tyre age
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Read the 4-digit date code on each tyre (week and year): imports often arrive on old tyres that look fine but are hard and cracked.
Why it matters: Old tyres crack and lose grip even with plenty of tread.
[☐]Headlight conversions
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Aftermarket HID or LED kits in halogen headlights, or lights that dazzle, need fixing before an inspection.
Why it matters: Unapproved light conversions are a common fail on imports.
[☐]Japanese window film
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Very dark factory or aftermarket film on the front side windows usually has to come off.
Why it matters: Japanese tint limits differ from Australia's.
Wheels and tyres
The single most common inspection fail. Check all four tyres, and the spare.
[☐]Tread depth
Common problem on imports
What to look for: At least 1.5 mm of tread across the whole tyre (the tread-wear indicator bars in the grooves are 1.6 mm high: if the tread is level with them, the tyre is done). Look at the inside edge too.
Why it matters: Bald tyres are a fail everywhere and the biggest cause of losing grip in the wet; four new tyres cost $500 to $1,500.
[☐]Cuts, bulges, cracking and uneven wear
Common problem on imports
What to look for: No cuts or bulges in the sidewalls, no exposed cords, no deep cracking from age, and even wear across each tyre.
Why it matters: A bulge means the tyre structure has failed and can blow out; uneven wear points to alignment or suspension problems.
[☐]Matching, correct tyres
What to look for: Tyres on the same axle are the same size and type, the size is allowed for the car (tyre placard), and nothing rubs on full lock.
Why it matters: Wrong or mismatched tyres change braking and handling and are a common fail on modified and imported cars.
[☐]Wheels and wheel nuts
What to look for: Every wheel nut or stud is there and tight, no cracked or badly bent rims, and wheels do not stick out past the guards.
Why it matters: A missing nut or cracked rim is an immediate fail.
Brakes
[☐]Brake pedal and stopping
What to look for: The pedal is firm, stays high and does not sink when you hold it down with the engine running. The car stops straight with no grinding, squealing or shudder through the pedal or steering wheel.
Why it matters: A spongy or sinking pedal means air, a leak or a failing master cylinder; pulling or shudder means worn or warped brakes.
[☐]Park brake
Common problem on imports
What to look for: The handbrake or electric park brake holds the car on a slope and releases fully.
Why it matters: A weak park brake is a very common fail on older cars.
[☐]Brake fluid and leaks
What to look for: Fluid is between the MIN and MAX marks and clean, with no wet patches behind the wheels or along the brake lines.
Why it matters: A brake fluid leak can mean total brake loss.
Steering and suspension
[☐]Steering play and clunks
What to look for: With the engine running, the wheels respond as soon as you turn the steering wheel: no free play, knocking or clunking from lock to lock.
Why it matters: Worn tie-rod ends and racks are a fail and make the car wander.
[☐]Shock absorbers
What to look for: No oil leaking down the shock absorbers. Push down on each corner: the car should bounce once and settle.
Why it matters: Leaking or worn shocks reduce grip and are a common fail.
[☐]Joints, bushes and boots
What to look for: No split CV or steering boots, perished rubber bushes or loose ball joints (a mechanic can check this on a hoist).
Why it matters: Worn joints can let a wheel move unexpectedly.
[☐]Ride height
What to look for: The car sits level and is not sagging at one corner; a lowered car still has enough ground clearance.
Why it matters: Broken springs and over-lowered suspension are fails.
Lights, horn and electrical
Get someone to stand outside while you work every switch.
[☐]Headlights (low and high beam)
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Both work on low and high beam, the high-beam light on the dash works, the lenses are not cracked, heavily yellowed or full of water, and they are aimed down (not dazzling).
Why it matters: Blown or misaimed headlights are one of the most common fails; water in a lens can mean a past repair.
[☐]Indicators and hazard lights
Common problem on imports
What to look for: All indicators (front, rear and side repeaters) and the hazard lights flash at a normal speed, and the dash arrows work.
Why it matters: A fast-flashing indicator usually means a blown globe.
[☐]Tail, brake and reverse lights
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Tail lights, all brake lights (including the high-mounted one) and the reverse light work, and the lenses are not cracked or taped.
Why it matters: A missing brake light is an instant fail.
[☐]Horn
What to look for: The horn works and sounds like a horn (no novelty or musical horns).
Why it matters: A working horn is required on every car.
Windscreen, windows, wipers and mirrors
[☐]Windscreen chips and cracks
Common problem on imports
What to look for: No cracks and no chips bigger than a small coin in the area the wipers clean, especially in front of the driver. Chips outside that area are usually fine.
Why it matters: A crack in the driver's view is one of the most common fails. Small chips can often be repaired cheaply before they spread.
[☐]Wipers and washers
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Both wiper blades clear the screen without smearing or chattering, and the washers spray onto the glass.
Why it matters: Worn blades are a cheap but very common fail.
[☐]Window tint and film
What to look for: Aftermarket tint is within your state's light-transmission limit, not bubbled or peeling, and there is no tint on the windscreen apart from the top band.
Why it matters: Dark or damaged tint is a fail, and very common on imported cars.
[☐]Windows and demister
What to look for: The driver's window opens and closes, side windows are not cracked, and the demister clears the windscreen.
Why it matters: You need a clear view all round.
[☐]Mirrors
What to look for: The interior mirror and the driver's side mirror (and passenger's, if fitted) are present, secure and not cracked.
Why it matters: Missing or broken mirrors are a fail.
Body, rust and chassis
Look in daylight, on a dry day, with the car parked on level ground.
[☐]Panels and paint (accident repairs)
What to look for: Even gaps between panels, the same colour and shine on every panel, no paint overspray on rubbers or trim, no ripples when you look along the sides.
Why it matters: Mismatched paint and uneven gaps mean accident repairs.
[☐]Rust
Common problem on imports
What to look for: No bubbling paint or rust holes on the wheel arches, sills, door bottoms, floor, boot lip, strut towers or around the windscreen and seatbelt mounts. Surface rust on panels is usually OK; rust that goes through, or near a structural point, is not.
Why it matters: Structural rust is a fail and expensive to fix properly. It is the number one problem on older cars.
[☐]Chassis and structure
Deal-breaker if it fails
What to look for: No bent or crumpled chassis rails, welding repairs or crash damage underneath (a mechanic on a hoist sees this best).
Why it matters: Bent rails or welding mean a serious accident, and structural damage fails the inspection.
[☐]Sharp edges and loose parts
What to look for: No loose panels, sharp torn metal or protruding parts (bull bars, tow bars, bumpers) that could injure someone.
Why it matters: Sharp edges and loose panels are a fail.
[☐]Doors, bonnet and boot
What to look for: Every door opens from the inside and outside and latches securely; the bonnet and boot latch firmly.
Why it matters: A door that will not open from inside is a safety risk in a crash.
Inside: seats, seatbelts and dash
[☐]Dashboard warning lights
Common problem on imports
What to look for: All warning lights come on with the ignition, then go out once the engine runs (engine, airbag/SRS, ABS, brake, oil, charge).
Why it matters: A warning light that stays on, or never comes on at all (a removed globe), hides a fault, and an airbag or ABS light is a fail in most states.
[☐]Seatbelt webbing
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Pull every seatbelt all the way out: no fraying, cuts, fading or stiff sections.
Why it matters: Damaged webbing can snap in a crash. A very common fail on older cars.
[☐]Buckles and retractors
Common problem on imports
What to look for: Every buckle latches and releases, and every belt retracts on its own and locks when you yank it.
Why it matters: A belt that does not lock or retract is a fail.
[☐]Seats
What to look for: Seats are firmly mounted, the driver's seat adjusts and locks, and the backrests lock upright.
Why it matters: A loose seat moves in a crash.
[☐]Smell and damp
What to look for: No musty or damp smell, no wet carpets or water stains on the roof lining.
Why it matters: Damp means a leak or flood damage, and mould is hard to get rid of.
[☐]Air conditioning and electrics
What to look for: The air conditioning blows cold, and the windows, locks, mirrors, radio, screen and cameras all work.
Why it matters: A dead air conditioner can cost $1,000 or more to fix.
[☐]Wear matches the kilometres
What to look for: The steering wheel, gear knob, pedals and driver's seat bolster look as worn as the kilometres suggest.
Why it matters: Heavy wear on a low-kilometre car suggests the odometer is wrong.
[☐]Keys and extras
What to look for: Two keys, the owner's manual, the spare wheel and jack, and the locking wheel-nut key if fitted.
Why it matters: A replacement smart key can cost hundreds.
Engine, exhaust and leaks
Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive: a warm engine hides starting problems.
[☐]Engine oil
Deal-breaker if it fails
What to look for: Pull the dipstick: the level is between the marks and the oil is brown or black, not milky. Look under the oil filler cap for a milky, mayonnaise-like residue.
Why it matters: Milky oil can mean a failed head gasket, a very expensive repair.
[☐]Coolant
What to look for: The coolant is at the right level and coloured (green, pink, blue or orange), not rusty brown and with no oil floating in it. Never open a hot radiator cap.
Why it matters: Oil in the coolant or rusty coolant points to head gasket or cooling problems.
[☐]Oil, fuel and fluid leaks
Common problem on imports
What to look for: No fuel leaks or smell, no oil or coolant sprayed around the engine bay, and no drips under the engine, gearbox or differential where the car was parked.
Why it matters: Oil on a hot exhaust is a fire risk and a fail; gearbox and differential repairs are expensive.
[☐]Belts, hoses and battery
What to look for: No cracked belts or swollen hoses, and a clean battery with no corrosion on the terminals (the date on the battery label tells you its age).
Why it matters: Cheap parts, but a snapped belt leaves you stranded.
[☐]Cold start
What to look for: The engine starts easily, idles smoothly and settles down within a minute. No knocking, rattling or blue or white smoke.
Why it matters: Rattles on start-up and smoke are signs of engine wear.
[☐]Exhaust system
What to look for: No heavy rust, holes, broken hangers or black soot around the joints; no blowing or loud leaks, and not louder than standard.
Why it matters: Exhaust leaks can let fumes into the cabin; loud exhausts are a fail.
[☐]Smoke
What to look for: No visible smoke from the exhaust once the engine has warmed up.
Why it matters: Continuous smoke is an emissions fail and a sign of engine wear.
[☐]Engine mounts and accelerator
What to look for: The engine does not lurch badly on take-off, and the accelerator returns to idle on its own.
Why it matters: A sticking accelerator is dangerous.
Modifications
Skip this if the car is standard.
[☐]Modifications are allowed
What to look for: Lowering, lift kits, bigger wheels, engine and exhaust changes are within your state's limits, or have an engineering certificate where one is needed.
Why it matters: Unapproved modifications are a fail and can void your insurance.
Test drive
At least 20 minutes on different roads, including some faster driving. Take your licence; check the car is insured for the drive.
[☐]Gearbox
What to look for: Automatic: smooth changes with no slipping, flaring revs, thumps or delays when you select drive or reverse. Manual: no slipping or grinding, and the clutch bites in the middle of the pedal travel.
Why it matters: Transmission repairs are among the most expensive.
[☐]Steering and noises on the road
What to look for: The car drives straight with the steering wheel centred, with no clunks over bumps, knocking on full lock, or humming that changes with speed.
Why it matters: Noises point to worn suspension, CV joints or wheel bearings.
[☐]Temperature and power
What to look for: The temperature gauge stays in the middle and the engine pulls smoothly with no hesitation.
Why it matters: Overheating can wreck an engine.
[☐]After the drive
What to look for: Leave it running for a few minutes: look for smoke, new leaks under the car and warning lights.
Why it matters: Some problems only show when the engine is hot.
Doing the deal
[☐]Independent inspection
What to look for: Have a mechanic or inspection service check the car before you pay, especially from a private seller.
Why it matters: A professional inspection is cheap compared with a big repair.
[☐]Warranty and cooling-off
What to look for: From a dealer, ask which statutory warranty applies in Queensland and whether there is a cooling-off period (the rules are above). Private sales have neither.
Why it matters: The warranty decides who pays if something breaks in the first weeks.
[☐]Price against similar cars
What to look for: Compare the asking price with similar cars (year, kilometres, condition), then take the rough fix costs from your summary off it.
Why it matters: Known problems are your best negotiating point.
[☐]Written contract or receipt
What to look for: From a dealer: a written contract with the price, any warranty, extras promised and the cooling-off terms. From a private seller: a receipt with both names and addresses, the VIN, the date, the price and the odometer reading.
Why it matters: Promises not in writing are hard to enforce.
[☐]Pay safely
Deal-breaker if it fails
What to look for: Pay by bank transfer to the registered owner or the dealer, only after the PPSR is clear on the day, and never pay a deposit to hold a car you have not seen.
Why it matters: Car-sale scams usually ask for money before you have seen the car.
[☐]Registration transfer
What to look for: Know who lodges the transfer and by when (14 days in most states), and the stamp duty you will pay.
Why it matters: Late transfers can cost a fine, and you are not the registered owner until it is done.
Your deal check
0 of 68 checked · Queensland · Japanese import · from a dealer
Deal confidence
Start checking
Mark a few checks and the gauge shows how confident you can be about this deal.
Why this score
- 68 checks not done yet. Until most of the car is checked the score can't go above 30.
Each part of the car
- PaperworkNot checked0/13 checked
- BodyNot checked0/14 checked
- MechanicalNot checked0/20 checked
- InteriorNot checked0/8 checked
- Test driveNot checked0/4 checked
- ImportNot checked0/9 checked
What to negotiate (0)
No red flags marked yet.
What to ask the dealer
- Which statutory warranty applies to this car in Queensland, and what does it cover?
- Is there a cooling-off period, and what would it cost me to cancel?
- Can I see the service history, the PPSR certificate and the safety certificate?
- Is the price drive-away, including registration, stamp duty and fees?
- Has the car had any accident or panel repairs?
- Can my mechanic inspect it before I sign?
General information only, not legal or mechanical advice. A checklist does not replace an inspection by a qualified mechanic, and only an authorised inspector can pass a vehicle. Scores and costs are rough guides. Rules change: check your state's official pages (linked above) before you rely on them.
Official sources for every state, checked 30 October 2026: https://carstrike.com.au/tools/car-check. General information only, not legal or mechanical advice. A checklist does not replace an inspection by a qualified mechanic, and only an authorised inspector can pass a vehicle. Scores and costs are rough guides. Rules change: check your state's official pages (linked above) before you rely on them.